Great Loop Day 047 Oct 14, 2016, Tall Timbers Marina to McEvers Island Anchorage
Tall Timbers Marina to McEvers Island Anchorage
A river doesn’t just carry water, it carries life.-Amit Kalantri
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Day 47 Friday, Oct 14, 2016. Know what I miss? Having dry rugs in the cabin to walk on in my stocking feet. How they got wet later. Longest day motoring but did manage to get 73.0 miles in. After a thousand miles I finally found the sweet spot on my outboard motor where I can get the maximum mileage for the least amount of gas. 73 miles in 10 hours and less than 5 gallons of gas. It helps a little to have a river current going your way.
We left Tall Timbers Marina in Havana, Illinois at 7:20 am central time. Sun was up but still hidden by the trees till 7:45. Not as cold as yesterday when the temp was in the low 40s most of the morning. I had to get out my winter gloves, it was so cold. Today I added an extra layer.
I couldn’t help but notice how Tall Timbers Marina has such a narrow entrance off the main channel of the river. Before he showed me the laundry room, Bob, the owner of the Tall Timbers was working on getting a permit renewed to have the entrance dredged. The bureaucracy and the paperwork were horrible he said. The river was up several feet and I had no problem entering or leaving this small, quiet marina. Oh, I should mention this. Bob does not accept credit or debit cards. Cash or check only. Lucky for me I remembered to bring along my checkbook.
The laundry is on the first floor of a 2 story building where Bob lives above. It was the most I had to pay for washing and drying. 2 bucks for each. Happy I only had one load. When I asked for water to fill my drinking water jugs he showed me the garden hose where I can get it. Ahh, no thanks, I think I have enough water onboard. The showers were up the hill from the boats near the laundry room. A good number of steps, I must say. This marina has two separate bathrooms in one building. Inside the men’s room a sink and shower stall, and plenty of hot water. It needs a small chair or bench in there so that we old folks can sit down and put on our clean socks but they were clean and well-maintained. Outdoors on the docks were 2 porta-potties in their little tiki-like huts.
There's something special about people who own cats and Bob fits the bill. I'd stop there again.
Met another couple there yesterday who kept their boat docked here for the season. Very friendly and helpful. Said the Mayor of their town of Havana had traveled to another Havana, that one in Cuba trying to get them to be sister cities. History has it there was a cigar manufacturer here in this Havana, Illinois back in the 1880s.
Another calm and sunny start leaving Tall Timbers Marina. The river was like glass in places with a light fog on the water. It would burn off in an hour or so. If I wasn't so tied up in navigating I would be taking more pictures. The morning light paints a magical scene around every bend. Then around 10 or 11 am the winds start to blow and ruffle the water's stillness. And If the wind wasn't in my face most of the day, I would be much more comfortable. I can feel that nagging windburn on my face as I write this.
A couple of notable events occurred before anchoring here next McEvers Island, I take piloting my little craft very seriously. Rarely do I take my eyes off the river in front of me. It only takes 30 seconds of inattention to get you in trouble. Sometimes less. Before I go below to get something I scan the river in front and behind. I check the course line and where the boat is heading. When I return I would check again. This one instance somewhat baffles me. I'm in the center of the channel lined up perfectly with the next navigational aid downriver. I was texting Ed a note on my cellphone and viewed my depth at 20 ft. Before I could finish the note my bow was within five feet of the shore and on a collision course with an overhanging tree that lined the bank. And I'm still in 20ft of water. I was using the depth finder thinking it would get shallow so 20 ft depth was good. Only to find some portions of the shoreline have deep drop-offs. A quick course correction. You know the routine. Put the auto tiller on standby. Take the push rod off the tiller. Turn hard and if needed turn the motor for more steerage. Crisis averted.
The other instance was the return of Montezuma's revenge in all the places it just so happens to be next door to Montezuma, Illinois. Bucket primed with plastic bags and I was ready. Happy to report: all went well. Several nice things about sitting alone in a boat on a bucket with a pool noodle on the rim out in the center cockpit. I can see all around me, have total control of the tiller with her auto tiller, and most importantly, get the job done. Had to resort to this situation on a few occasions. Once on a busy section of the river, a pontoon boat filled with spectators motored near me I'm sure they could tell you the color of my eyes. Grabbed a towel near me and placed it over my knees and no one knew I had my pants down around my ankles. " Good day, madam, lovely weather we're having".
For the past 40-plus days I had the Sea Marie either docked at a full-service marina or tied off a wall. Tonight I will spend it “on the hook” or tied to a line attached to a metal anchor holding us from floating away. The odds are I will be the only boat anchored in this chute. To say I’m a bit apprehensive would be an understatement.
Mile 49 and I sure was happy to see the cut between McEvers Island and the mainland on my port. There was a moderate current as I entered from the south and no trees in the water. The chute was narrow about three boat lengths or 50 to 60 feet wide. Looks like a muddy bottom. I slowed to an idle, walked up to the bow, and dropped my forward claw anchor. Let out about 100 ft of anchor rode and it grabs. I make double sure the rode is well cleated on both forward bow cleats. Place the motor in reverse and power up. The boat stops, and the anchor is set. It was recommended in the guidebook to deploy a stern anchor which I had and heave it off the stern as far as I can toss it. A stern anchor will keep the boat from swinging to either shore. The boat is steady just like on a dock. I am starting to feel more comfortable. On my cellphone, I have an anchor alarm. It’s set on the GPS coordinates. Should the anchor dislodge and the current send me down the river the alarm goes off and it is loud enough to wake me from a sound sleep.
I go below and find my thermos was knocked over when I returned the bucket. This is one of those pump thermoses that leaks horribly when placed on its side. That’s how the rugs got wet. Out goes the wet rugs in the cockpit to dry.
Put out Mickey on a short leash to romp on deck and I called Pogo Bob to update him. He tells me he was anchored here in 2007 on his Great Loop journey.
Moved the microwave off the stovetop. Time to prepare the Spanish Rice using the alcohol stove. A can of diced tomatoes will go with it. Boiled water for the thermos and I am set for morning breakfast. Ate the rice, took my meds and made a cup of coffee. Life is good! Watched the waning half-moon peak out over the trees and then watch as the moonlight lit up this little piece of paradise. Time for a good sleep and to plan my next leg. Tomorrow we get to see the mighty Mississippi River. So to all Fair Winds and gentle seas...
Comment from 2016:
Pogo Bob Enjoyed our chat, Henry (as always). Fair winds and dry rugs!
Leaving early in the morning from Tall Timber Marina and the fog begins to lift.
Looking for something besides coffee and the hot chocolate hits the spot.
Now and then an unusual feature pops up on the shoreline. On this tower, the windows lined up to view up and downriver. Other than that I have no clue as to its purpose.
The LaGrange Lock is only used in times of low water. There are wooded slats hinged called wickets underwater across the river from here and are raised by workmen on boats. That creates a dam that raises the river upstream to provide enough water to keep the barges and tugs moving. River traffic then needs to use the locks to get up or down to move on.
A tug resting. At some point, there would be a barge there to either fill up or get emptied.
The tug Charlie White moving barges around.
Our feathered friend here doesn’t seem to mind all the barge traffic just as long as he can gets his dinner.
The Route 100 Florence Bridge.
The river is the lifeblood of many communities providing a way of life and income.
Adaptation is the keyword. The residents know the river gets high and protect their living space with stilts.
The barges never stop. Day and night they haul cargo up and down the river.
Captured this colorful butterfly taking a short rest on the quarterdeck of the Sea Marie.
Did the river catch this nun as it silted over or did this navigational aid release its anchor and drift to the sandy beach?
Keeping clear of these giants of the river.
On occasion, I see other intrepid voyagers out on their own. Like me, taking one day at a time.
These specialized tows usually transport liquified gas in pressurized storage tanks.
50 miles to go to get to the Mississippi River
My favorite dinner dish is Spanish Rice with diced tomatoes
Got dark in a hurry. I got this shot in the low moonlight.
Behind me, a tow working upriver in the dark with a bright spotlight. You never hear them just see the light as it scans the shoreline.